I've been playing auction leagues now (MLB and NHL) for some time and have developed a fairly obvious reputation in my two leagues (mostly overlapping owners). I generally NEVER throw a guy I want out meaning that if I throw out Rivera its because I want Nathan and most of the wiser leaguemates are quite aware of this. Secondly, teams know that if every book, magazine and website has a star player for no more than $45 I'm willing to go $50 or higher if I think he's the guy I need. I'll pay an extra 2-3 or 5 bucks if needed.
First I would like to address my second point, this works in two ways. Sometimes it keeps owners out of bidding if they see me going mid 30's or higher on a guy and they know I won't let up. If I really want a guy I'll buy him. (I'd like to qualify this by saying I generally know my leagues inflation rate very well and always find my leaguemates underestimate it greatly in our keeper league.) Also about once every two or three years I'll stop cold on a guy when I think someone is simply trying to price enforce me and doesn't actually want a guy. This keeps owners honest and I generally refresh their memory at some point mid draft. (I am the yappy guy who never shuts up at the draft, I know I hate that guy too.)
I am wondering though if this year I can possibly take advantage of throwing out guys I intend on buying? My normal pattern would be to throw out say Papelbon, quickly get him to 20. Start the bidding at 15, someone says 16, I'll instantly go 20 and than go away. He'll end up at whatever and the draft moves on. In auction leagues its very difficult to start runs, but I'm wondering if I can possibly get a guy by opening at lets say Markakis at 28? This would be very out of the realm of my drafting history and might really throw the other guys for a loop. Especially if I ended up taking him for say 31, 32. Get guys wondering if I've changed my strategy and thereby ignoring their own teams in front of them.
My question at the end of this is it worth altering my "pattern" not my strategy to try and influence other owners to not pigeon hole my previous drafting history and do you as I track other owners drafting habits?
Do you have an auction draft tell or reputation?
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alleyoops
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Re: Do you have an auction draft tell or reputation?
You probably do throw out guys who you want, in the end game, because at that point, there's a pretty good chance you're getting the guy you nominate. So I presume you're talking about the earlier parts of the auction.
I've found it best to vary this based on what is going on in the auction. Auctions tend to have "phases", where owners are overbidding for guys, then underbidding, then overbidding, etc. Sometimes it's over or underbidding for certain positions, such as catchers, or closers, or starting pitchers. When we're not in an underbidding phase, I'll throw out guys who I don't want, especially ones who I think will be overbid, to get some $ off the table, and have someone else get that guy at that position, instead of the guy I want. In an underbidding phase, I'll throw out a guy who I want, and hope the trend continues. If you wait on the guy, by the time he comes up folks with money left may see him as worth overspending to get. In an underbidding phase, though, in general owners are trying to conserve their $, and you can get him at or below value.
In many leagues the best underbidding opportunities are on the first guy nominated (owners aren't settled it, don't want to overspend early, don't realize the effect of inflation) or on the first guy nominated after a break.
To your question - yes, it might be worthwhile for you to change your approach on a few guys, so you can't be "read". Not sure I'd bring Markakis in at 28, though. But generally it doesn't hurt you that owners know you don't really wan the guy you nominated. The owners who do want him will bid him up, so you're pretty much a non-factor on that guy anyway.
I've found it best to vary this based on what is going on in the auction. Auctions tend to have "phases", where owners are overbidding for guys, then underbidding, then overbidding, etc. Sometimes it's over or underbidding for certain positions, such as catchers, or closers, or starting pitchers. When we're not in an underbidding phase, I'll throw out guys who I don't want, especially ones who I think will be overbid, to get some $ off the table, and have someone else get that guy at that position, instead of the guy I want. In an underbidding phase, I'll throw out a guy who I want, and hope the trend continues. If you wait on the guy, by the time he comes up folks with money left may see him as worth overspending to get. In an underbidding phase, though, in general owners are trying to conserve their $, and you can get him at or below value.
In many leagues the best underbidding opportunities are on the first guy nominated (owners aren't settled it, don't want to overspend early, don't realize the effect of inflation) or on the first guy nominated after a break.
To your question - yes, it might be worthwhile for you to change your approach on a few guys, so you can't be "read". Not sure I'd bring Markakis in at 28, though. But generally it doesn't hurt you that owners know you don't really wan the guy you nominated. The owners who do want him will bid him up, so you're pretty much a non-factor on that guy anyway.
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rotodog
Re: Do you have an auction draft tell or reputation?
By all means, change your patterns....You have too. Identify the Studs you will need and wont be kept by others. If one position will be real thin like 3b because of many keepers and you need one, Find the one you want early and throw him out...And buy him.
Its Easiest to do at the beginning of the draft as was eluded earlier. If you have first nomination, even better..
It is pretty common for the Most expensive , most sought after players to be tossed out first. If you decide you want Pujols or Wright and he is tabled for whatever price, Bump him ALL THE WAY to 2 dollars less than you think he will go for...if thats 49 bucks, then Immediately Jump the $10 opener to 47 BUCKS...You may stun em into silence....If they will go for 55 bucks, Jump to 53........You will usually have to tell the auctioneer to get counting as owners make a mad grab and dash for there books and sheets......You may or may not get an owner at the last , last second to make one final bid one dollar more....Without hesitation, and confidently and calmly bump one more dollar... He will be yours....
When you get your Stud, Make sure you nominate the Next best Stud at the same position you just bought....He may go for more than the Stud you own...I have bought hanley Ramirez in an NL for 53 bucks this way and followed up with Rollins and saw someone realize they needed to buy a top SS and paid Rollins 57 bucks....
Do toss out what you want sometimes....if they know you well, just initiate the bidding with the opener andthen shut up while others do the bidding..if two guys are standing and at the very last second looks like one guy will win the player you nominated and wanted, You jump in and grab him....After bidding with one guy for the last few bucks, when it appears one bidder will finally win the player, he is often deflated when you last second bid him right after the going twice call....
At that point, he doesnt have the mental strength to begin the process over again with another bidder...
But be careful, do not do this with the last player available before a SIGNIFICANT drop off...At that point, the gloves are off and the bidding can get stupid with the last FT 3b in an NL league...
vary the whole thing.....Do allow others to fill spots and open up the opportunity for you to own other players you want....if you think Evereth Cabrera will come cheap, and two other teams need a SS/MI, throw out JJ HArdy for a buck...Allow someone to own for him for 5 bucks so you can be the last man standing needing a SS/MI and almost guarantee a discounted EV- Cab... if you get JJ for a buck, no harm I guess....
if you go back to last Spring in this very thread, you will see some other Topics just like this with more bidding info..
Hope it helps
Its Easiest to do at the beginning of the draft as was eluded earlier. If you have first nomination, even better..
It is pretty common for the Most expensive , most sought after players to be tossed out first. If you decide you want Pujols or Wright and he is tabled for whatever price, Bump him ALL THE WAY to 2 dollars less than you think he will go for...if thats 49 bucks, then Immediately Jump the $10 opener to 47 BUCKS...You may stun em into silence....If they will go for 55 bucks, Jump to 53........You will usually have to tell the auctioneer to get counting as owners make a mad grab and dash for there books and sheets......You may or may not get an owner at the last , last second to make one final bid one dollar more....Without hesitation, and confidently and calmly bump one more dollar... He will be yours....
When you get your Stud, Make sure you nominate the Next best Stud at the same position you just bought....He may go for more than the Stud you own...I have bought hanley Ramirez in an NL for 53 bucks this way and followed up with Rollins and saw someone realize they needed to buy a top SS and paid Rollins 57 bucks....
Do toss out what you want sometimes....if they know you well, just initiate the bidding with the opener andthen shut up while others do the bidding..if two guys are standing and at the very last second looks like one guy will win the player you nominated and wanted, You jump in and grab him....After bidding with one guy for the last few bucks, when it appears one bidder will finally win the player, he is often deflated when you last second bid him right after the going twice call....
At that point, he doesnt have the mental strength to begin the process over again with another bidder...
But be careful, do not do this with the last player available before a SIGNIFICANT drop off...At that point, the gloves are off and the bidding can get stupid with the last FT 3b in an NL league...
vary the whole thing.....Do allow others to fill spots and open up the opportunity for you to own other players you want....if you think Evereth Cabrera will come cheap, and two other teams need a SS/MI, throw out JJ HArdy for a buck...Allow someone to own for him for 5 bucks so you can be the last man standing needing a SS/MI and almost guarantee a discounted EV- Cab... if you get JJ for a buck, no harm I guess....
if you go back to last Spring in this very thread, you will see some other Topics just like this with more bidding info..
Hope it helps